UZBEK HANDMADE NATURAL COTTON IKAT ROBE CHAPAN A7732




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Reference Number: Avaluer:52262
Original Description:
 

Bold design of the ikat is full of fresh original tribal air. It is hand-made silk-ikat "Adras". In Central Asia, decorative weaving and textiles have existed since the 4th-5th centuries ВС. Uzbekistan is particularly noted for its ikat fabric. Ikat is a word of Indonesian origin, which refers to fabric that is patterned by binding the warp threads to resist dye before weaving. Many ancient legends surround the production of ikat in Central Asia. One legend states that in da...ys of old one of the famous regional khans had a very beautiful daughter. The local weaver fell in love with the khan's daughter but was told the daughter was betrothed to someone else. The weaver was so upset and beseeched the khan to change his mind about him marrying the khan's daughter. The khan told the weaver that if he could come-up with a special cloth to match those imported from China and India, the khan would reconsider giving the weaver his daughter's hand in marriage. The weaver was upset at the khan's teasing and spent the night by the side of a small lake crying. While spending the night in the open and on the shore of the lake the weaver couldn't help but notice how the full moon on the calm waters created a blurred reflection of the trees, fruit and other items along the shore. While sitting there watching the changing shapes reflect themselves off of the water, the weaver saw the design of a special cloth he could create from the reflections. The next day the weaver worked all day dyeing and weaving until he created a representation of the reflections seen in the water. The cloth was presented to the khan, who liked it so much that he allowed his beautiful daughter to marry the weaver. The technology of ikat manufacturing is quite complicated and includes 37 steps. The steps may be summarized as follows: Prepared silk threads for the warp of the fabric are distributed into small skeins of 40-50 threads each, which are wound around square beams on a loom. The space between the beams is 1.4 - 2.25 meters which is why after a certain interval in the fabric a horizontal white stripe can be seen. An artist called an abrband then outlines a special pattern on the bundles of thread which are stretched out on the loom. According to the pattern, sections of thread are bound with thick cotton thread so that they resist dyeing. Prepared sections of thread are immersed in boiling dye for several minutes. After dyeing, the threads are straightened, and the process is repeated with a different color of dye. Sometimes natural dyes are used including pome­granate skin (anor-pusty), the Japanese sofa flower (tuhumuk), madder (ruyan), onion skin, and nuts. At last, the loom is dressed with the dyed warp threads and the weaving process can begin. According to tradition, weavers use a polish made with egg whites which is applied to the fabric. The fabric is then ironed, and the final result is a shiny, thick appearance with an amazing play of colors. 
 LOT NAMERobe ChapanORIGINMargilan, UzbekistanMATERIALSreal natural cotton-ikat, FULLY HAND-MADE AdrasCONDITIONEXCELLENTSIZElength-46 in, chest-49 in, From the end of one sleeve up to another-66 in.
length-117 cm, chest-124, 5 cm, From the end of one sleeve up to another-167, 5 cm.

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