CIRCA 1902 HANDWRITTEN TRAVEL DIARY STEAMSHIP SMITH COLLEGE HUSBAND ARTIST 78pp
Item History & Price
Up for auction is a superb travel diary written by Helen Bartlett Maxcy. She journeys with her husband artist and Harvard graduate Roy Elliott, Bates on a tour of the British Isles and France in 1902. Helen Bartlett Maxcy lived in Gardiner, Maine and graduated from Smith College. Her father was Josiah Smith Maxcy President of the Gardiner Savings Bank, and Trust. She was a talented young woman who wrote poetry traveled the world and meet famous artists along the way.
As me...ntioned she was married to artist Roy Elliott, Bates (1882-1920) "He was known for landscape painting many of his paintings are listed online. His parents were Reverend Welcome Elliott and Sarah (Hester) Bates. Roy Elliot Bates was a Harvard grad and studied at Oxford University as a Rhodes Scholar. During vacations, he (along with Helen) traveled on the continent and to the British Isles, visiting France, and Switzerland, Italy, Wales and Scotland. He attended Honor School of British Literature and graduated with a B.A. Oxford, in 1908."
I discovered a good deal about members of her family, but not much about Helen. That being said her diary is a wonderful travel account of England, Wales, Scotland, Ireland, and France filled with fascinating content. Her diary is well written, and very descriptive with some of the best content regarding the British Isles I’ve offered in sometime. In fact the majority of the content focuses on the British Isles.
The diary contains 73 double pages and measures “10 x 6” bound in a handsome red leather folio with gold gilt fore edged paper. She begins writing June 28, 1902 as she leaves Hoboken N.J. onboard the Steamer Statendam of the Holland America Line.
The entries are very lengthy, a single day can constitute two pages. I transcribed portions of her diary. Keep in mind these are just fragments of more lengthy entries. Transcribing her diary is a monumental task since there is so much content to digest. In addition the diary acts as a scrapbook with magazine cutouts, postcards, and other ephemera within the diary. For example I discovered two sheets of original poetry, a letter addressed to Josiah Smith Maxcy from a S.A. Rodmin? plus large prints ( photogravure) showing different locations in Scotland, or perhaps Ireland. As always any questions feel free to ask.
Brief excerpts from Helen’s diary:
Steamer Satendam
June 28, 1902
Helen Bartlett Maxcy is truly on the way to Europe. Who would have believed it two months ago ? Not surely, but here I am perched on my couch which by the way seems the most comfortable berth. Next to that in my mind comes the upper near the ventilator cr lines fourth ave to eighteenth Duist Street to Hoboken Ferry. People were waving enthusiastically especially the friends of the second class passengers. One fat large featured person like” maggy” in Little Dorit was bobbing up and down waving throwing kisses and crying “ She sees us, she see us !” I quite loved her for it.
July 2m 1902 (at sea)
An exciting time this am whales were spouting on each side of us such disappointing creatures for I had expected to see some huge, black bodies and a jet of water was all we could spy. Some black porpoises were tumbling about in the afternoon and when we moved up on the boat deck we saw a sky blue French bark who signaled us but I couldn’t find it anymore to tell em what she said. The wind and sun were delightful this pm and the big fleecy clouds were wonderful come on promenade deck in evening and watch the sun setting.
July 4, 1902
Capt. Bakker had been beaming all day and fairly gave up the ship to the Americans. We found the dinning room decorated with flags and bunting and later the Stars and Stripes were raised by a little girl. Than came a procession and two short speeches by Mr. F. Ashely Atkins and Dr. John Reid. In the afternoon there are games on deck with fireworks later in the evening.
The last event was a Ball at which the second class people did most of the dancing.How they enjoyed themselves ! Such little things affect one on shipboard a persons manner of walking or talking, a voice , a laugh, a persons manners. One had to be so carefree. Am trying its cultivate observe and unconsciousness, also rest query, how can the three go together.
July 11, 1902- France
Went once more to the Louvre and spent most of the time among the paintings, but saw also the Slaves by Michael Angelo. This afternoon we got a permit to visit the Cociergeio and saw Marie Antoinette's bible all with iron lamps and the tiny space Robespierre was confined. Also the Saiunte Chapelle with the lower place for servants an the beautiful stained glass gallery for the nobility.
This evening we had a weekly soiree- and a most pleasant glimpse of the French life it was. The French people are fascinating so graceful and curious and polite. They do not laugh at my mistakes but help one along so kindly. It is fun to be treated as I were grownup and I do like parties at 117 Rue Dame Des Champs as they are so kind it is a good place for one studying French as they wish it spoken all the time.
July 26, 1902- England
Took a drive around the Westend to see the various Palaces which are a bit disappointing. Marllbrough House and Buckingham Palace are not as fine as many we have at home- The Eagles Nest is not screaming- Did a little more shopping in the morning and in the afternoon went to St. Saviours Church where among others Edward, Shakespeare, Sir Edward Dyer, Massinger, Fletcher, and ( Laurence Fletcher ) They have no monuments the church is interesting but appears rather modern. There are two interesting epitaphs one an epitaph upon John Lrehearme.
July 29, 1902 - Oxford
We walked through the beautiful Christ Church Meadows up the broad walk to Christ Church College founded by Walsey 1524 and one of the largest and most fashionable in Oxford. The town gate is beautiful every night Great Tom rings the cryer at five minutes after all the gates are closed. White Cardinal Newman and Thomas Hughs were some of the members. In the afternoon we visited Magdalen Chapel
Aug 12, 1902- Scotland
We left Edinburgh and stopped for an hour at Sterling where we saw the castle on the top of hill. There is a wonderful view. One can look out over the plains and see the field of Buckingham, , one of the places I have always longed to see. We could also see the Wallace monument on a hill opposite. Past Loch Venach at the foot of Ben Led over the Brig of Tuck to loch Achuay and the Trossacks Hotel. Ben Venue is on the opposite side of the Loch.
June 16, 1902 - Island of Mull
The morning we started early and sailed out to the South of the island of Mull to Iona and Staffa. The day was fine and we could see all the beautiful hills as we passed. At Iona we visited the ruins of an old convent, then went on to M’leans Cross which is the oldest on the island and beautifully carved. From there we passed to the graveyard where Scottish chiefs and kings up to Macbeth are buried. There was the burial place of St. Columbia than we went in the yard of the cathedral is the only cross on this Island - pure Celtic.
June 18, 1902
Left Ohan this morning and came by sea to Criman and came down the pretty little Criaman canal in the midst of a purring rain to Ardrishig where we changed to a steamer that took us though the end of the Loch Tyne and the Kyles of Bute to the Clyde up which we sailed to Glasgow. There are some beautiful residences on the banks of the Clyde, but it would be wiser to sail up at high tide on account of the unsanitary condition of the sewage system. We are staying at the Armstrong Temperance Hotel which is thoroughly homelike and desirable in every way. It’s on Bath Street. Mr Armstrong is very Kindly helping us with our trip.
June 19, 1902- Ireland
Ireland such a surprise ! We have actually come to Paddy land Mr. Armstrong happened to mention how near Port rush is and suddenly we decided we wanted so much to go. Went by rail to Ardersau and took the “ Azalea” for Portrush it as a glorious day, and we sailed over the waves.
June 22, 1902 - Scotland
Left Glasgow at nine went to Dumfries on the Nith We passed kilmarnock when the first edition of Burn’s poems was published in 1786 and went near his farm but could not see it. The Nith and the Afton were very beautiful flowing beside us with trees and streets half hiding them. At Dumfries we saw New Grey Friars Church near which was the Grey Friers monastery where Bruce slew the Red Comyn in 1306. Near this is a beautiful monument to Burns with a statute of him and his dog. We passed the house in Bank Street were he lived and went on to mausoleum at St Michael’s which is unhappily forlorn. The little house in which he died was not far away and from there we drove to the Glencoe Inn where he often used to sit. It really contains treasures which are owned by the proprietress. There is a Burn’s clan on which so many good carved there names that its keep locked up.
As me...ntioned she was married to artist Roy Elliott, Bates (1882-1920) "He was known for landscape painting many of his paintings are listed online. His parents were Reverend Welcome Elliott and Sarah (Hester) Bates. Roy Elliot Bates was a Harvard grad and studied at Oxford University as a Rhodes Scholar. During vacations, he (along with Helen) traveled on the continent and to the British Isles, visiting France, and Switzerland, Italy, Wales and Scotland. He attended Honor School of British Literature and graduated with a B.A. Oxford, in 1908."
I discovered a good deal about members of her family, but not much about Helen. That being said her diary is a wonderful travel account of England, Wales, Scotland, Ireland, and France filled with fascinating content. Her diary is well written, and very descriptive with some of the best content regarding the British Isles I’ve offered in sometime. In fact the majority of the content focuses on the British Isles.
The diary contains 73 double pages and measures “10 x 6” bound in a handsome red leather folio with gold gilt fore edged paper. She begins writing June 28, 1902 as she leaves Hoboken N.J. onboard the Steamer Statendam of the Holland America Line.
The entries are very lengthy, a single day can constitute two pages. I transcribed portions of her diary. Keep in mind these are just fragments of more lengthy entries. Transcribing her diary is a monumental task since there is so much content to digest. In addition the diary acts as a scrapbook with magazine cutouts, postcards, and other ephemera within the diary. For example I discovered two sheets of original poetry, a letter addressed to Josiah Smith Maxcy from a S.A. Rodmin? plus large prints ( photogravure) showing different locations in Scotland, or perhaps Ireland. As always any questions feel free to ask.
Brief excerpts from Helen’s diary:
Steamer Satendam
June 28, 1902
Helen Bartlett Maxcy is truly on the way to Europe. Who would have believed it two months ago ? Not surely, but here I am perched on my couch which by the way seems the most comfortable berth. Next to that in my mind comes the upper near the ventilator cr lines fourth ave to eighteenth Duist Street to Hoboken Ferry. People were waving enthusiastically especially the friends of the second class passengers. One fat large featured person like” maggy” in Little Dorit was bobbing up and down waving throwing kisses and crying “ She sees us, she see us !” I quite loved her for it.
July 2m 1902 (at sea)
An exciting time this am whales were spouting on each side of us such disappointing creatures for I had expected to see some huge, black bodies and a jet of water was all we could spy. Some black porpoises were tumbling about in the afternoon and when we moved up on the boat deck we saw a sky blue French bark who signaled us but I couldn’t find it anymore to tell em what she said. The wind and sun were delightful this pm and the big fleecy clouds were wonderful come on promenade deck in evening and watch the sun setting.
July 4, 1902
Capt. Bakker had been beaming all day and fairly gave up the ship to the Americans. We found the dinning room decorated with flags and bunting and later the Stars and Stripes were raised by a little girl. Than came a procession and two short speeches by Mr. F. Ashely Atkins and Dr. John Reid. In the afternoon there are games on deck with fireworks later in the evening.
The last event was a Ball at which the second class people did most of the dancing.How they enjoyed themselves ! Such little things affect one on shipboard a persons manner of walking or talking, a voice , a laugh, a persons manners. One had to be so carefree. Am trying its cultivate observe and unconsciousness, also rest query, how can the three go together.
July 11, 1902- France
Went once more to the Louvre and spent most of the time among the paintings, but saw also the Slaves by Michael Angelo. This afternoon we got a permit to visit the Cociergeio and saw Marie Antoinette's bible all with iron lamps and the tiny space Robespierre was confined. Also the Saiunte Chapelle with the lower place for servants an the beautiful stained glass gallery for the nobility.
This evening we had a weekly soiree- and a most pleasant glimpse of the French life it was. The French people are fascinating so graceful and curious and polite. They do not laugh at my mistakes but help one along so kindly. It is fun to be treated as I were grownup and I do like parties at 117 Rue Dame Des Champs as they are so kind it is a good place for one studying French as they wish it spoken all the time.
July 26, 1902- England
Took a drive around the Westend to see the various Palaces which are a bit disappointing. Marllbrough House and Buckingham Palace are not as fine as many we have at home- The Eagles Nest is not screaming- Did a little more shopping in the morning and in the afternoon went to St. Saviours Church where among others Edward, Shakespeare, Sir Edward Dyer, Massinger, Fletcher, and ( Laurence Fletcher ) They have no monuments the church is interesting but appears rather modern. There are two interesting epitaphs one an epitaph upon John Lrehearme.
July 29, 1902 - Oxford
We walked through the beautiful Christ Church Meadows up the broad walk to Christ Church College founded by Walsey 1524 and one of the largest and most fashionable in Oxford. The town gate is beautiful every night Great Tom rings the cryer at five minutes after all the gates are closed. White Cardinal Newman and Thomas Hughs were some of the members. In the afternoon we visited Magdalen Chapel
Aug 12, 1902- Scotland
We left Edinburgh and stopped for an hour at Sterling where we saw the castle on the top of hill. There is a wonderful view. One can look out over the plains and see the field of Buckingham, , one of the places I have always longed to see. We could also see the Wallace monument on a hill opposite. Past Loch Venach at the foot of Ben Led over the Brig of Tuck to loch Achuay and the Trossacks Hotel. Ben Venue is on the opposite side of the Loch.
June 16, 1902 - Island of Mull
The morning we started early and sailed out to the South of the island of Mull to Iona and Staffa. The day was fine and we could see all the beautiful hills as we passed. At Iona we visited the ruins of an old convent, then went on to M’leans Cross which is the oldest on the island and beautifully carved. From there we passed to the graveyard where Scottish chiefs and kings up to Macbeth are buried. There was the burial place of St. Columbia than we went in the yard of the cathedral is the only cross on this Island - pure Celtic.
June 18, 1902
Left Ohan this morning and came by sea to Criman and came down the pretty little Criaman canal in the midst of a purring rain to Ardrishig where we changed to a steamer that took us though the end of the Loch Tyne and the Kyles of Bute to the Clyde up which we sailed to Glasgow. There are some beautiful residences on the banks of the Clyde, but it would be wiser to sail up at high tide on account of the unsanitary condition of the sewage system. We are staying at the Armstrong Temperance Hotel which is thoroughly homelike and desirable in every way. It’s on Bath Street. Mr Armstrong is very Kindly helping us with our trip.
June 19, 1902- Ireland
Ireland such a surprise ! We have actually come to Paddy land Mr. Armstrong happened to mention how near Port rush is and suddenly we decided we wanted so much to go. Went by rail to Ardersau and took the “ Azalea” for Portrush it as a glorious day, and we sailed over the waves.
June 22, 1902 - Scotland
Left Glasgow at nine went to Dumfries on the Nith We passed kilmarnock when the first edition of Burn’s poems was published in 1786 and went near his farm but could not see it. The Nith and the Afton were very beautiful flowing beside us with trees and streets half hiding them. At Dumfries we saw New Grey Friars Church near which was the Grey Friers monastery where Bruce slew the Red Comyn in 1306. Near this is a beautiful monument to Burns with a statute of him and his dog. We passed the house in Bank Street were he lived and went on to mausoleum at St Michael’s which is unhappily forlorn. The little house in which he died was not far away and from there we drove to the Glencoe Inn where he often used to sit. It really contains treasures which are owned by the proprietress. There is a Burn’s clan on which so many good carved there names that its keep locked up.
